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Description:
Source: https://erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil/jspui/ ; The effects of frequency and directional spreading on wave transformation in the nearshore . region were investigated using a three-dimensional physical model of Yaquina Bay, Oregon. The 1:45 model consists of an entrance channel protected by two rubble-mound jetties with a sloping bottom and submerged reef offshore of the entrance. Unidirectional and directional wave spectra, representative of the six most severe hindcasted storms in the past 20 years, were numerically transformed to a shallow-water depth of -58 ft mllw. A range of spectral parameters, including frequency and directional spreading, were modeled. Incident and transformed wave elevations were measured using capacitance wave gages located offshore and near the jetty head, respectively. Descriptions of the simulation and generation, directional spectral analysis, and control signal correction algorithm are given. Comparisons of predicted and measured peak periods, wave heights, wave direction, frequency spectra, and directional spreading are presented and discussed. This study is divided into three phases. Phase 1, reported herein, is a calibration of the performance characteristics of the six unidirectional and six directional cases. A total of 36 cases was required to measure and correct the control signals for depths.